One of the oldest and most interesting churches in Europe: an imperial chapel splendiferous with 4c mosaics; a number of fascinating inscriptions including a famous one recording the career of Pliny the Younger; the sarcophagus of Stilicho; in a glass case in the crypt, the bodies of SS. Gervase and Protase, and of St. Ambrose who found them and then the frescoes, the sculpted capitals, the bronzes...